Fig Pizza. You knew it had to happen. If only it had been my idea….
My first taste of such a pizza came at Time Market, http://www.timemarket.xyz a terrific little local market/café. And of course, these fine folks use long fermented pizza dough…in a wood fired pizza oven… with which my home oven cannot compete. But I still try, because this pizza is scrumptious.
Pizza was an unknown entity in my early days on the farm, until these little boxes appeared in the grocery store, labeled “Appian Way.” Sounded very Italian! I’m amazed to discover that this product is still produced today, because it was, um, not exactly a pizza to write home about. A little packet of dough ingredients, can of sauce and envelope of cheese. What came out of the oven? Overly sweet tomato sauce on a biscuit-y crust topped with oddly powdered “parmesan.” By the time I was in high school, there was a pizza place in town; we’ll leave it at that.
Having now experienced true Neapolitan pizza on Italy’s Amalfi coast, I can assure you it is amazing. Thin chewy crust, puffy edges dotted with crispy charred spots from the wood fired pizza oven. Fresh mozzarella combined with authentic parmigiana-reggiana. I can only hope the cooks in heaven are Italian. We have several shops here in the city that come close, using naturally leavened crust in big beautiful wood fired ovens. Since none of them are exactly around the corner, I make it at home more often than taking it out.
On ambitious days, long fermented dough is rolled and flipped on the charcoal grill. Topped in the kitchen and quickly broiled, this comes closest to authentic pizza, with the delicious char that only a fire can bring. More often, the same dough is topped and oven baked on a pizza stone, in the hottest temperature I can crank up. Then there are the days like today, when there isn’t really even time enough to eat! Out comes the packaged pre-baked sprouted wheat crust… the point being that we can make homemade pizza fit just about any occasion.
My first experience of fruit on pizza was the whole pineapple-and-ham thing. I find it amazing that this combination still exists; it’s just a nonstarter for me-pineapple is too juicy, too sweet, too…in the wrong place. While figs are sweet, they are enthusiastic participants in the whole sweet-salty-savory thing. (Yes, I know I am a bit biased, but figs are the most versatile fruit ever!) The savory is provided by the onion and fennel sauté. The salty comes from the cheeses and the walnut sauce brings the richness. While I call for fresh mozz and real parmigiana, goat cheese or feta would be a great combination with the figs, too. Should you happen to be the pizza-has-to-have-meat type, a few strips of prosciutto will snuggle up to those figs just fine.
As I mention every July, fig season is fleeting. If you find a package calling your name, grab them and fire up the oven or light the grill. I made two pizzas, both disappearing in about half the time it took to make them. Bring home the figs and it will happen for you, too!
Fig and Walnut Pizza
Ingredients
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 3/4 cup diced onion
- 1/2 cup diced fennel bulb
- 1/2 tsp fennel seed
- 2 tsp diced fresh rosemary 1 tsp if using dried rosemary
- chile flakes to taste
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 cup walnut pieces
- 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
- 12 medium figs sliced or cut into chunks
- 8 oz fresh mozzarella cheese sliced and drained on paper towels
- Pizza dough for 2 12-inch pizzas, or 2 premade 12-inch crusts
Instructions
- Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and fennel, stirring to coat with the oil. Brown for several minutes, then turn down the heat and cover, allowing the vegetables to cook slowly till soft, about 20-30 minutes. Stir in the fennel seeds, rosemary and chili flake, if using. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then set aside to cool.
- If a baking stone is available, place it in the oven and preheat to 450° F. In a food processor, combine the vegetable mixture with the walnuts, and process to a chunky paste. Add a tablespoon or two of water and process to achieve a spreadable texture, but don’t make it too smooth. There should still be tiny chunks of walnut remaining. Alternately, the mixture can be ground using mortar and pestle, or simply chopped together on a cutting board.
- Press the dough out into a 12-inch circle on a piece of parchment paper. If using a baking sheet, transfer the parchment to the pan. If using the baking stone, transfer the parchment to a pizza peel or pan for sliding onto the stone. Spread half the walnut sauce over each crust. Sprinkle each pizza with 2 tablespoons parmigiana cheese. Press the fig pieces into the sauce, then dot the fresh mozzarella over the top. Side the parchment onto the baking stone, or place the baking sheet in the oven. Bake until the crust browns and cheese is bubbly, about 10-12 minutes.
