Trendy vegetables such as winter squash and the more exotic roots were relatively uncommon on the folks’ farm. Daddy grew immense amounts of summer squash-zucchini, yellow and patty pan; of course it takes only one summer squash plant to result in mammoth amounts of squash. Somehow they miraculously grow as big as your head overnight! And potatoes, onions and carrots aplenty were stored in the “basement,” which was actually more of an underground root cellar. But butternut? Acorn? Kabocha, for heaven’s sake? Rutabaga? Japanese turnips?
Not so much.
Both acorn squash and parsnips were available at the local grocery store, and Mom did occasionally sneak one of these unique characters into the meal rotation. She would split the acorns in half and fill the center wells with butter, brown sugar and warm spices. The parsnips baked in butter, with just a sprinkle of sugar. Butter, butter-Mom loved her butter with a passion. While my dad very seldom had anything but praise for what Mom put on the table, I suspect that these vegetables were perhaps not his favorites, even with the butter. Once, Mom tried to pass rutabaga off as “celeriac,” to which my dad responded, “They taste like turnips.” He did not swallow either Mom’s fib or the rutabaga…
Today, farmer’s markets, CSAs, and even the grocery store are awash with a great variety of root veg and winter squash. But familiar old butternut is my customary go-to. While it is a so-called starchy vegetable, it has half the carbs and calories of a potato, and seems a relatively healthy candidate for the portion of the plate I devote to carbs. It’s fairly bland on its own, and responds well to seasoning. I usually follow Mom’s lead by peeling, cubing and roasting with olive oil, brown sugar, warm spices, and a touch of cayenne. (Sorry Mom, not using butter.)
But wait-cayenne? Yes, the sweet needs that little hit of heat to balance the flavor. Along with that heat, add the smokiness of chipotle chili and the salty creaminess of feta cheese. Chipotle chilies are nothing more than smoked jalapeno peppers. I purchase them in cute little cans, the peppers submerged in adobo sauce. I use them whenever I want a hit of smoke without too much heat. The richness provided by the feta is the perfect foil, balancing the flavors delightfully.
This gratin could easily grace one’s Thanksgiving table; it can be scaled up to serve a crowd for larger gatherings. Yet it’s easy enough to serve as a side just about any time. And I promise it does not taste like turnips…
Chipotle Butternut Gratin
Ingredients
- 1 lb whole butternut squash
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 tbsp flour
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper
- 1/2 tsp rosemary
- 1/2 tsp thyme
- 2 tbsp chipotle chile in adobo sauce finely chopped
- 2 tbsp broth of choice
- 1 tsp honey or agave nectar
- 1/4 cup feta cheese crumbles
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 375° F. Spray or lightly grease a quart size casserole dish. Cut the squash in half, lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and peel. Slice thinly, crosswise, into approximately 1/8-inch slices and set aside. Combine the butter and flour, mixing into a soft paste. Mix the salt, pepper, rosemary and thyme together in a small bowl. Finally, stir together the chipotle, broth and honey.
- Make a layer of squash slices, slightly overlapping, in the bottom of the casserole. Sprinkle with a third of the spices, dot with a third of the butter/flour paste, then a third of the chipotle mix. Sprinkle with one tablespoon of the feta crumbles. Repeat the layers two more times, but reserving the final two tablespoons of cheese. Cover tightly with foil, bake for 35 minutes, or until the squash is tender. Remove the foil, sprinkle the remaining feta cheese over the top and bake uncovered for 15 additional minutes.
