Put An Egg On It

I have to wonder what they were thinking. Perhaps they were ahead of their time, transitioning the diversified family farm to an egg farm. My mother was a stay-at-home mom after years of being employed. Perhaps she was bored, or they wanted to supplement my dad’s income. Who knows? Whatever the reason, the pullets arrived and we began to produce eggs. Y’know how a few chickens in the backyard is a charming idea? Two thousand chickens, not so much… and that’s a small number when compared to today’s egg production facilities.

Egg farming facilities tend to get a bad rap these days, but many of the high production practices of today weren’t even imagined when my folks decided to narrow their farm focus to egg production. Our chickens were housed in a huge old airy tobacco barn, well ventilated with a high roof and lit with long windows.   The dirt floor provided plenty of room to roam along with insects to supplement their feed. Rows of roosting boxes lined with hay allowed them to nest comfortably. No cages and no oddly bred birds unable to hold up their own weight. These birds lived in the high rent district in comparison to the chickens of today.

The egg business also ensured that our own supply of eggs and chicken were never in short supply. Not too surprising that many of our meals were centered on eggs: eggs baked in nests of buttery bread crumbs, waffles and eggs, creamed hard cooked eggs with dried beef, etc. etc. The chickens, however, were the old biddies, who having outlived their ability to produce eggs, required stewing to be tender. My mother and eventually I became masters at producing chicken dinners from long and slow simmered geriatric hens.

The family favorite was what my mother called “pot pie.” Pot pie was not a deep dish of meat and vegetables with a crust, though. It was more of a stew, with squares of chewy homemade noodle dough, carrots, celery and hearty chunks of chicken all afloat in a bowl of very rich chicken broth. It often included little eggs, basically yolks, from the hen’s egg sac. It was true homespun comfort food. I’ve learned in the past several years that it is actually an Amish and/or Pennsylvania Dutch recipe, as are several of my family’s traditional foods.

I had not made this delicious richness in decades. It was lost along with the robust hens that actually taste like chicken. The bland birds available in the supermarket just wouldn’t make this dish. But in recent years I have once again been able to find authentic well-raised hens, at my local community supported agriculture. Better yet, the birds are not the geriatric types. We manage a number of meals from one of these birds, first roasting the whole chicken for dinner, reserving pieces of meat for the stew. Followed by slicing meat for sandwiches. When the carcass is the only remainder, it is stewed along with aromatic vegetables to make the flavorful broth needed for the pot pie. This recipe begs for a cold lazy day. Don’t wait as long as I have to try it.

Chicken Pot Pie

Prep Time45 minutes
Cook Time20 minutes
Total Time1 hour 5 minutes
Course: Entree
Servings: 4 servings

Ingredients

  • 8 cups of high quality chicken broth preferably made from your own chicken
  • ¾ - teaspoon each of thyme rosemary, and tarragon
  • 4 large carrots scrubbed and sliced ¼-inch thick
  • 4 ribs of celery washed and sliced ¼-inch thick
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 3 cups cubed or pulled chunks of chicken
  • Dough
  • 2 cups flour I use my usual blend of sprouted and spelt, but all purpose is fine, too
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 lumps of shortening or butter the size of a walnut (about 3 tablespoons)
  • 1 egg
  • ½ cup hot milk

Instructions

  • Bring the broth to a boil in a large soup pot and season with the herbs. Add the carrots and celery and reduce to low. Cover the pot and simmer the vegetables while preparing the dough.
  • Combine the flour and salt, then cut in the shortening until the texture resembles grains of rice. Stir in the egg and hot milk, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide the dough in half. Roll each half very thin, approximately 1/8-inch in thickness. Cut into 1 to 1 1/2 –inch squares.
  • Bring the broth mixture back to a boil, and drop the pot pie squares in slowly. Once all are in the broth, stir to ensure the squares don’t stick together, then reduce the heat to a strong simmer. Cook 20 minutes, or until the pot pie dumplings are tender. Add the chunks of chicken and heat through. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed.

 

Farro Salad with Moroccan Spices

Farro Salad with Moroccan Spices
Farro Salad with Moroccan Spices

Moving to the desert southwest, we expected a few Saguaro, prickly pear, and Palo Verde trees. A few agave, teddy bear cacti-the typical palate of Sonoran flora and fauna. We did in fact have all those plants on our property. What we did not expect was a full grove of seven mature citrus trees. Other than watering and fertilizing, we somehow ignored the rapidly growing golden globes until last November. Then the harvest started, we were drowning in tangerines, and the old farm ethos kicked in…

Everything we grew on the farm was either eaten or preserved. While weeding, picking and preparing vegetables for the table was often my responsibility, the preserving of the harvest was a daily job throughout the summer for my mother and me. Most of the produce had to be cleaned, shucked, blanched and shocked before freezing in stackable boxes. Tomatoes and their juice had to be steam peeled, cooked and strained before pouring into freshly sterilized jars and going into the canner.

These steamy activities took place in a big old non-air conditioned kitchen, accompanied by average heat in the upper eighties with humidity to match. While others might attribute their lovely skin to avoiding the sun and not smoking, I know better. My skin has remained relatively smooth well into my…well, let’s call it “advanced middle age,” because I lived in a steam bath all summer for the first two decades of my life.

So now my husband is proudly carting basket upon basket of citrus fruit into our new kitchen, just as my dad did with vegetables years ago on the farm. I was dubious about the pride, for this fruit had basically grown itself, but the piles of citrus remained all the same. He was also expecting with great anticipation that I would know what to do with all of it. Uh, yeah. Our friends quickly realized that while an invitation to dinner at our house might mean a delicious meal, the exit ticket would be grabbing a bag of citrus fruit on their way out the door…

Eventually we had to face the preservation of all this fruit. We zested and juiced abundant amounts, which we froze for later use. I tested recipes and made jars of freezer citrus curd. The husband continues the quest for the perfect limoncello. And then there were the preserved lemons… The harvest ended around April, so now we are enjoying the fruits of our labor, so to speak.

Preserved lemons are a unique product, perhaps new to many Westerners. They are typically used in Middle Eastern dishes such as tagines. Classically combined in long braises with meat, chickpeas and olives, they lend a deep lemony umami that is both unfamiliar and delicious. Their production is basically a fermentation process using salt, lemons and seasonings. While I would not have made them myself had I not been wrestling with bushels of lemons, you are welcome to have at it should you be so inclined. (Let it be noted that I have purchased them in the past at Trader Joes…)

The process I used can be found at: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1016212-preserved-lemons

Now deep umami braises are just peachy in the desert in January. In July?At 108° F.? Not so much. Which is how a lunchtime salad was born this week. Whole grains, vegetables, and maximum flavor with none of the hot steaminess, thank the heavens above.

Farro Salad with Moroccan Spices

Prep Time30 minutes
Cook Time30 minutes
Total Time1 hour
Course: Salad
Servings: 4 servings

Ingredients

  • ¾ cup farro
  • 2-¼ water or broth
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons diced preserved lemon peel
  • 6 grape tomatoes
  • ¼ cup chopped green olives
  • ¼ cup sliced celery
  • ½ cup sliced green onion
  • ½ cup chopped parsley
  • 2 cups cubed cooked chicken or drained chickpeas for a vegetarian version
  • Dressing:
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil I use garlic infused oil for one of the three
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • ¼ teaspoon each of:
  • Cumin
  • Coriander
  • Cayenne
  • Leaf thyme
  • Grated lemon zest
  • ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

  • Rinse the farro grains, then add to the water or broth in a saucepan along with the salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer and cook for approximately 30 minutes, or until tender but still chewy. Drain and turn into a large mixing bowl. Cool slightly. Add the remaining salad ingredients and combine gently.
  • Whisk the dressing ingredients together and pour over the salad. Stir gently to coat with dressing. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

 

To make gluten-free: substitute brown or forbidden black rice for the farro.