We all know that the Pillsbury Doughboy was not particularly welcome in my mom’s farm kitchen…But you know, it was that whole Poppin’ Fresh thing that got to me. Something about cracking the cylinder on the counter’s edge, the roll dough springing out from its tight confinement. The dough, pre-portioned into rolls with their minute perforations. The pre-made icing in its own tiny cup! I am, of course, referring to cinnamon rolls in a tube, one of Big Food’s most ingenious inventions.
My grandmother was probably the one who sneaked the doughboy’s cinnamon rolls into her kitchen for me. (It was at times hard to believe that she was the mother of my nutrition minded mother!) It’s not like we could make a healthier homemade version either; we didn’t make them from scratch at home. TV commercials portrayed the perfect family sitting down to quick breakfast cinnamon rolls, as though rolls were required to make warm family memories. We certainly had great family breakfasts, just without cinnamon rolls. My kid’s cookbook had a quick cinnamon roll recipe using biscuit dough, rather than yeast dough, which I did make sometimes. There were also whole wheat versions, but the whole wheat flour available at that time made one dense cinnamon roll!
I was an adult before it occurred to me that I could bake all the darn cinnamon rolls I wanted! Real yeast-raised authentic cinnamon rolls. They were good, fluffy white dough with buttery, gooey cinnamon filling and a thin layer of icing. Not great, just good. Not nearly as delicious as one might expect, actually. By the time giant, ooey-gooey cinnamon rolls had invaded the mall, wafting their warm scent of cinnamon right up one’s nose, the jig was up and I was finished. They were over the top. Because after all my childhood longings, cinnamon rolls never quite lived up to all the hype. What? Mom was right yet again? Yep-they were a little too doughy, a touch under baked, too gooey, too white bread and dare I say it? perhaps too sweet… it was hard to justify baking them.
Sooo… a while back I began working on a cinnamon roll recipe with an improved nutrition profile whose consumption didn’t inspire guilt. It’s what I call the every day cinnamon roll, a roll that I can enjoy more often. A cinnamon roll that while still fluffy has the taste and nutrition of whole grain flours. A cinnamon roll with less saturated fat, more fiber and protein. Let’s be clear: this is still a sweet roll, but offers more taste and nutrition, without concerns about putting it into the breakfast rotation. These rolls melt in my mouth, the classic flavor combo of maple, buckwheat and cinnamon mingling in every bite, with a tiny bit of crunch from the chia seeds. The tannins in the buckwheat balance the sweetness of the maple syrup deliciously. No icing, just a rich drizzle, brushed over the tops, one of the tricks I learned from Mom when baking rolls.
This is quite honestly the cinnamon roll I’ve always wanted. Do these dare to be different, to challenge cinnamon roll tradition? Well, yes. But they are delectable. My only regret is that they don’t pop out of a tube.
Every Day Buckwheat Cinnamon Rolls
Ingredients
Dough
- 1 cup water
- 2 tbsp. chia seeds
- 2 1/4 tsp. instant yeast
- 1 1/2 cups white whole wheat flour whole wheat pastry flour is desireable.
- 1 cup buckwheat flour
- 1 1/4 cups un-cleached all-purpose flour
- 1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
- 1 tsp. salt
- 1/2 tsp. grated orange zest
- 1 lge. egg
- 1/4 cup real maple syrup
- 1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
- 1/2 cup whole milk yogurt not Greek yogurt
- 1/4 cup neutral vegetable oil I use avacado oil
Filling
- 1/4 cup butter softened
- 1/4 cup brown sugar
- 1 tsp. cinnamon
- 1/2 cup walnuts finely chopped
Glaze
- 1 tbsp. milk
- 2 tsp. butter
- 2 tsp. real maple syrup
Instructions
- Stir the chia seeds into the water and set aside to soften.
- In large stand mixer bowl, combine the instant yeast with the flours, then stir in the cinnamon, salt and orange zest.
- To the dry ingredients add the chia seed gel, egg, maple syrup, vanilla extract, yogurt and oil. Using the paddle attachment, mix thoroughly on low speed. The dough will be soft. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and switch to the dough hook attachment. Knead the dough at medium low for three minutes.
- Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for several minutes until very smooth. Place dough in a bowl sprayed with pan spray. Spray the top of the dough to prevent drying. Cover and set aside to rise for 1 to 1-½ hours, until dough has almost doubled in size. Rising time will vary with the temperature of the room.
- While dough rises, combine the ¼ cup butter with brown sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon for the filling.
- When dough has risen, scoop onto lightly floured surface. Lightly deflate and let rest for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375° F. and lightly grease a 9×13-inch baking pan. Roll the dough evenly into an 18”x12” rectangle. Spread with the prepared filling, to within ½-inch of the edges. Sprinkle evenly with walnuts. Roll into a log from the long side. Slice into 18 rolls. Place the rolls in the prepared baking pan. Flatten slightly with fingers and cover loosely with a dry kitchen towel. Set aside to rise for 1 to 1-½ hours, until puffy and light.
- Bake in preheated oven for 15-20 minutes. While rolls bake, combine and heat the milk, butter and syrup, just to melt the butter. When browned and fully baked, remove the rolls and immediately brush with the glaze. Remove to cooling rack.