Moving to the desert southwest, we expected a few Saguaro, prickly pear, and Palo Verde trees. A few agave, teddy bear cacti-the typical palate of Sonoran flora and fauna. We did in fact have all those plants on our property. What we did not expect was a full grove of seven mature citrus trees. Other than watering and fertilizing, we somehow ignored the rapidly growing golden globes until last November. Then the harvest started, we were drowning in tangerines, and the old farm ethos kicked in…
Everything we grew on the farm was either eaten or preserved. While weeding, picking and preparing vegetables for the table was often my responsibility, the preserving of the harvest was a daily job throughout the summer for my mother and me. Most of the produce had to be cleaned, shucked, blanched and shocked before freezing in stackable boxes. Tomatoes and their juice had to be steam peeled, cooked and strained before pouring into freshly sterilized jars and going into the canner.
These steamy activities took place in a big old non-air conditioned kitchen, accompanied by average heat in the upper eighties with humidity to match. While others might attribute their lovely skin to avoiding the sun and not smoking, I know better. My skin has remained relatively smooth well into my…well, let’s call it “advanced middle age,” because I lived in a steam bath all summer for the first two decades of my life.
So now my husband is proudly carting basket upon basket of citrus fruit into our new kitchen, just as my dad did with vegetables years ago on the farm. I was dubious about the pride, for this fruit had basically grown itself, but the piles of citrus remained all the same. He was also expecting with great anticipation that I would know what to do with all of it. Uh, yeah. Our friends quickly realized that while an invitation to dinner at our house might mean a delicious meal, the exit ticket would be grabbing a bag of citrus fruit on their way out the door…
Eventually we had to face the preservation of all this fruit. We zested and juiced abundant amounts, which we froze for later use. I tested recipes and made jars of freezer citrus curd. The husband continues the quest for the perfect limoncello. And then there were the preserved lemons… The harvest ended around April, so now we are enjoying the fruits of our labor, so to speak.
Preserved lemons are a unique product, perhaps new to many Westerners. They are typically used in Middle Eastern dishes such as tagines. Classically combined in long braises with meat, chickpeas and olives, they lend a deep lemony umami that is both unfamiliar and delicious. Their production is basically a fermentation process using salt, lemons and seasonings. While I would not have made them myself had I not been wrestling with bushels of lemons, you are welcome to have at it should you be so inclined. (Let it be noted that I have purchased them in the past at Trader Joes…)
The process I used can be found at: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1016212-preserved-lemons
Now deep umami braises are just peachy in the desert in January. In July?At 108° F.? Not so much. Which is how a lunchtime salad was born this week. Whole grains, vegetables, and maximum flavor with none of the hot steaminess, thank the heavens above.
Farro Salad with Moroccan Spices
Ingredients
- ¾ cup farro
- 2-¼ water or broth
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons diced preserved lemon peel
- 6 grape tomatoes
- ¼ cup chopped green olives
- ¼ cup sliced celery
- ½ cup sliced green onion
- ½ cup chopped parsley
- 2 cups cubed cooked chicken or drained chickpeas for a vegetarian version
- Dressing:
- 3 tablespoons olive oil I use garlic infused oil for one of the three
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- ¼ teaspoon each of:
- Cumin
- Coriander
- Cayenne
- Leaf thyme
- Grated lemon zest
- ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Rinse the farro grains, then add to the water or broth in a saucepan along with the salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer and cook for approximately 30 minutes, or until tender but still chewy. Drain and turn into a large mixing bowl. Cool slightly. Add the remaining salad ingredients and combine gently.
- Whisk the dressing ingredients together and pour over the salad. Stir gently to coat with dressing. Cover and chill until ready to serve.
To make gluten-free: substitute brown or forbidden black rice for the farro.
Sounds like you are settling in nicely, and are enjoying your time doing what you do so well!